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Heres my write up on mounting R6 rearsets on the FZR frame. I hope this can be understood it looks kind of complicated. The exaust may have to be adjusted or a new pipe added in order to clear the new rearsets.All of the aluminum is T-6061 bought from speedy metals( they sell small cuts of metal -aluminum, chrome alloy, steel,and the threaded rod etc..) for strength. The reason I use 3/8 plates is they can be easily cut and shaped with what most of us have laying around our shop(drill,bench grinder,side grinder).These parts could be machined from a large chunk if you have the right equipment.I tried this at first , but its very hard to machine a 1& 1/2 inch hunk of t-6061 aluminum with a drill press and a side grinder. All bolts should be grade 8 or better for strength and lock tight should be used on everything. The heim joints used for the shifter linkage can be bought cheap on ebay or from summit or jeggs ( I think on summits and jeggs websites they are listed as rod ends but a heim joint and a rod end look like the same thing to me) are 1/4 inch right hand threads. **Note by Yamaha-George**(metric is available too in both LH & RH threads so that adjustability is easier) YOU NEED TO INSTALL A LOCK NUT ON THEM ( WHICH IS NOT SHOWN IN THE PICS) SO THEY DONT BACK OFF. You can put a steel or aluminum sleeve on the threaded rod for added strength or a rubber hose to make it look better. the threads on the heim joints and threaded rod are 1/4 x 28 ( fine thread).The R6 brake line bolts right up to the FZR brake caliper. ---- {{:rearsetmount.jpg|}} ---- {{:shifty.jpg|}} ---- {{:shift2.jpg|}} ---- {{:shift3.jpg|}} ---- {{:shift5-2.jpg|}} ---- {{:rear-set-a.jpg |}} ---- {{:shifter4.jpg|}} ---- {{:shift6.jpg|}} ---- {{:shift7.jpg|}} ---- **Author:- Tlc2Cann 2009-08-16 **

r6_rearsets_swap.txt · Last modified: 2020/10/19 11:50 (external edit)